Rödhamn – waiting for the right weather
A safe harbour before the open sea
Rödhamn is more than a popular guest harbour.
For centuries, these islands have been a safe haven for sailors waiting for the right weather before crossing the Åland Sea towards Sweden. Pilots and their families lived here for more than a hundred years, and traces of the old maritime life can still be found around the islands. Today, boats come here for a very different reason – to enjoy the quiet harbour, the rocks, the sauna and the long summer evenings.
Home to pilots and their families
Rödhamn was also home to pilots and their families for more than a hundred years. The pilots knew the waters around Åland and helped ships navigate the archipelago and the Åland Sea.
There are still traces of that history around the islands, including the old pilot station and the former radio beacon. It is easy to imagine how different life here must have been when the sea was both a workplace and a source of uncertainty.
Rödhamn today
Today, the atmosphere is much more relaxed. During the summer, boats arrive throughout the day and the harbour fills up with people enjoying a few days on the islands.
But if you stay until the evening, things start to change. The boats become quieter, people gather around the harbour or head for the sauna, and the light over the water slowly changes.
This is probably when I like Rödhamn the most.
A September trip to Rödhamn
It’s September, and the nights are starting to get chilly, but somehow the island seems more beautiful than ever.
This time we sailed there with our new crew member — a 15-month-old Pumi who took her job as deckhand very seriously. She kept a close eye on things, making sure we didn’t miss any of the navigation marks along the way.
On the way there, at times there was hardly any wind at all.
Our new crew member — a 15-month-old Pumi
September now, but somehow the island seems more beautiful than ever.
The radio beacon is now a museum.
Heather glowing in the evening sun.
Lighthouse keeper's house
The old pilot’s cottage is used as accommodation for young people attending sailing camps.
On the way back, the wind had picked up considerably and the sailing was much livelier. In the distance, you can just make out Kobba Klintar.
A Bit of History
Rödhamn is full of reminders of its long maritime history. On Rödö, you can still find traces of a medieval seafarers’ chapel, along with names, dates, coats of arms and even a sundial carved into the rocks by sailors waiting for better weather. On Gloskär, the remains of an old tavern recall a time when sailors could get a meal and a bed before heading out to sea. Lots were also stationed here from the 1820s until 1928.
The Åländska Segelsällskapet has more information about the island, its history and the guest harbour.